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| Himba and Skeleton Coast Safari - Skeleton Coast (day 4) |
Tue 5/11/2002 |
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During our morning drive towards the coast we stopped at pass overlooking entendeka plane, where I took a panorama picture of the arid landscape surrounding us.
Our second brief stop was at the entrance to the "Skeleton Coast Park", where we paid our entrance fees, followed shortly after by another halt to examine a two leaved plant, which is endemic to extremely arid regions and grows on hardly any water at all (20mm per year). It draws most of the moisture from the coastal fogs that on occasion move inland and lives in symbiosis with a small beetle (don't know what the beetle exactly does for it anymore though). The plant is a rather fascinating manifestation of how nature manages to adapt to even the most hostile environments.
Carried on driving soon to reach the coast, where we looked at some abandoned mining equipment and wandered along the Atlantic Ocean gazing at some of the seal skeletons and a shipwreck along the way.
Our next stop in the afternoon was Cape Cross Seal Colony which is home to about 200.000 Cape Seals, covering a huge area of the beach. An Impressive sight, seeing a beach full of seals as far as one could see. Due to pressures from the Namibian fishing lobby each year about 30.000 seals are killed, in an effort to keep the size of the colony approximately constant. Suzi remarked that the meat then gets given to animal sanctuaries, one of which she used to work at.
After a short coffe stop and some gorgeous cake in a hotel/lodge close to the seal colony, we proceeded down the coast to mile 72 where we would spend the night at a huge campground right on the beach. Luckily this night that we had been briefed on as being the coldest of all, turned out to be milder than everyone had expected. Was nice sitting around the fire on the sand, but somehow I always seemed be sitting right in the direction the wind and hence smoke was blowing.
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Mile 72 Campground (Skeleton Coast) |
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| Entendeka Plane |
Orik |
Entrance to Skeleton Coast |
Two Leaved Plant |

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| Cape Cross Seal Colony |
Seal Colony |
Seal Colony |
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| Himba and Skeleton Coast Safari - Brandberg (day 5) |
Wed 6/11/2002 |
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Set off inland towards the Brandberg massif, which we reached around lunchtime. The name Brandberg stems from the intense red glowing colour that the mountain displays at sunrise. Quickly set up tent and then had lunch in the shade. Rested for an hour during the heat of midday (not exactly true but ...) and then met up with the proprietor at the newly constructed and very nice bar which was completely run on solar energy (amortised within 2 years vs generator). Went off for a drive trying to find a herd of elephants which roam up and down the valley and the spring at the end of it.
Drove for ages until we spotted a huge single elephant bull, who after we tried to perch up closer trodded off into the woods and brush lands on the opposite side of the dry river bed. Continued on to the source where we only found a herd of cattle and no sign of elephants - lots of fresh tracks though. Spent a little while there and then made our way back towards the campsite. On the way back we encountered the whole herd of about 10 - 12 Elephants including a baby one, at which we only but got a glimpse through the bushes. The journey was further impeded by a smaller elephant bull blocking the river bed tracks we were using to get back to our campsite. Actually managed to get a picture this time and finally the smaller bull cleared off so that we could get going, just to barely make it back in the last light of day, which I tried to promptly photograph.
After some showering (very nice open air showers) and refreshing we all set off to the bar to celebrate our last evening with generous amounts of Peppermint Liquer and Amarula (mix for Springbocks). The seven of us, breezed through the two bottles and had a very enjoyable evening.
Headed off to bed at around midnight as we were going to leave at 6 am and walk to the white lady, a rock painting in the Brandberg mountains.
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Brandberg Elephant Campground |
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| Himba and Skeleton Coast Safari - Windhoek (day 7) |
Thu 7/11/2002 |
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Got up at 5am, the earliest start so far and quickly packed up and had breakfast, whilst attempting to take some burning red sunrise pictures of the Brandberg. Then drove to the trailhead, picking up our guide along the way.
Walked swiftly up to the rockpaintings of the "white lady" a painting which actually depicts a medicine man that is not even really white. After some short explanations and a lot of photo taking we made our way back to the car in order to get going on our way to Windhoek. Arrived there after a 45 minute walk and had some drinks (soft) before driving back to Windhoek. During which we passed the Spitzkop, which is not only the largest open air campsite in Namibia, but also a very interesting looking mountain.
On our way back we briefly stopped in Okahandja to stock up on wooden crafts at the large and well sorted market there. Managed to find a pair of wooden feet which are used as candleholders and in my case also act well as christmas presents.
Once in Windhoek I picked up my rental car and met up with Herbert and Tekla at the Chameleon to start our drive to Swakopmund, with the somewhat unrealistic goal of reaching it in daylight. Ended up barely missing our ambitious target, breaking the odd speed limit along the way. (basically trying to follow large 4x4 which were going even faster than us)
Arrived at 8:30 at our hostel "Villa Wiese", a large old Villa which was nicely decorated, had quite friendly staff and seemed to be a popular stop over for overland trucks. Had some drinks and food at the bar and headed off for an early night in a twin room, wow what a change from the tents.
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Villa Wiese, Windhoeker St., Swakopmund, (064) 407 105 |
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| Brandberg Sunrise |
Brandberg Sunrise |
Brandberg Hike |
Brandberg Hike |
"White Lady" |

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| Group - Tekla |
Group - Herbert |
Group - Claire & Stephen |
Spitzkop |
Sunset Swakopmund |
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| Swakopmund - Skydive Swakopmund |
Fri 8/11/2002 |
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After a short breakfast in town, dropped off Tekla and Herbert and headed out to the airport following a recommendation of Jim a fellow skydiver I met in Capetown and with whom I drove out to Citrusdal some weeks earlier. Skydive Swakopmund (, not only does an excellent job in promoting their tandem operation, but also lives up to the recommendation, being a very friendly, relaxed, nicely located skydiving operation with very decent facilities on the ground. (The only thing they now are missing is a turbine aircraft - Ph: +264-64-402841). The skydiving club recently merged with the second tandem operation and the two managers Craig and Simon really try to make the skydiving experience there a nice one. (Jumps are 150 Na$ to 10' incl. gear rental)
Managed to do 3 jumps, testing out a Heatwave 170 canopy on the last jump which was for sale. I opened high on the jump to appreciate the canopy ride and wow was it a rush. I don't remember ever having so much fun after having opened the chute and decided pretty much that day that I would have to buy such a canopy at some stage. The one for sale didn't quite strike my fancy so I decided to check into buying one near Durban where the factory (PISA) is located.
In the evening had dinner at the waterfront in a restaurant which had been recommended to Tekla and Herbert, which did not live up to the expectations and from there went out for some more drinks at a local bar.
part 3 of Namibia
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Villa Wiese, Windhoeker St., Swakopmund, (064) 407 105 |
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| View Over Swakop |
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